Warsaw

One of my best friends from university is a lovely Polish girl from Warsaw and I went to visit her for five days. I am honestly very ignorant of Poland and most of Central/Eastern Europe so I have to say I was very intrigued. Besides, the promise of cheap vodka was enough to lure me eastwards so I booked a ridiculously cheap flight (£50! Return! Thank you LOT airlines!) and hotel and looked forward to partying.

It has to be said that Warsaw, on the surface, is not the most beautiful city I have ever been to. Over 85% of it was destroyed in the course of World War Two and some rather unsightly Eastern Bloc architecture sprung up in its place. That said, the Old Town has been painstakingly recreated, brick for brick, and I think this provides a true example of what Warsaw and Poland is about. Resistance, resilience and getting on with and enjoying life.

Warsaw Old Town

Warsaw suffered. A lot. A must-see is the Warsaw Uprising Museum which really highlights the immense trauma Warsaw experienced during the war years and the Polish people's determination to fight back. It was impossible to fight back the tears when my friend translated the diary of an 8 year old boy who was actively involved in the resistance movement. "I hope I see my parents again." "I will never forgive them for what they have done to us." It's a tough museum to visit, but an important one. As with many museums dedicated to awful or harrowing events (the Holocaust exhibition at the Imperial War Museum springs to mind), every detail has been thought out. Warsaw is a booming, bustling city very much looking to then future but keenly aware of its past. Part of this, I presume, is due to the fact that its history is a part of history very much ignored outside of Poland. We all know Germany invaded Poland, but I at least had very little knowledge of Poland's role in the war beyond that. This is a shocking oversight. The Uprising Museum is not only full of information, all presented in an accessible and engaging way, but heartbreakingly demonstrative of how much was sacrificed by ordinary citizens. I for one will definitely be researching this aspect of WW2 history much further now. As a side note, if you're interested in this too then Andrzej Wadja's excellent 1956 film Kanal is a good place to start.

Of course, vodka is a key part of any visit to Poland. And drinks were CHEAP. Where else can you go to a capital city for five days with £100 and come back with change? Warsaw is also generally a very chilled and fun night out. The moment where I got insulted by a guy with a mullet aside, I found clubbing a much more relaxed and enjoyable experience. Guys didn't come up and grind into me as a way of indicating that I didn't look completely shit. They came up and ASKED to dance. And if I said no, they went away. Jesus, I wish clubbing in England was like that! It seems like it's a European thing (to be a respectful, non-douchebag) as the Swedish guys we met at the 70s club - don't ask - were equally friendly, chilled and non-sleazy. Brits, take note!

I also got to visit my friend's family, which was lovely. Polish people really are the best. You're in their house for less than a minute and you've got at least a beer. Magic! I also got to see lots of adorable Polish babies but I can't start talking about them or I'll never stop...

As I said, Warsaw is not Paris. It's not fabulous buildings (Old Town aside), elegant charm and tree-lined avenues. What it is is genuine, friendly and bloody good fun. Visit the Uprising Museum. Learn about the suffering this tough-exteriored city endured. Then appreciate how far it's come since. There's always someone offering a drink, a dance, a smile. I think that's worth a million Louvres or Notre-Dames if I'm perfectly honest.